Climb every mountain — twice for your sister’s lost painting

Climb every mountain — twice for your sister’s lost painting

Though I still can't pronounce it, I believe Oia (EE-ya?) may be the most beautiful city in the world. Also, I love my sister, And, I have an extremely well-developed sense of Catholic guilt. Combined, these three things led me to race a bunch of donkeys up a mountain on a hot afternoon, and to [...]

The green line of Cyprus

The green line of Cyprus

Lush beaches, fertile citrus groves and rich monuments give a gorgeous contrast to the stark political situation in Cyprus. The island nation owns the dubious distinction of having the only divided capital city in the world. A "green line" separates Nicosia's  northern half, occupied by Turkish Cypriots, from the southern half, inhabited by Greek Cypriots. [...]

Never again Masada

Never again Masada

One week before Israel celebrated Yom Ha’atzmaut, its national independence day, we toured a 2,000-year old symbol of the awful sacrifice made to achieve it. Masada rises like a golden monument above the Judean Desert, its proud columns and bright frescoes narrate an elegance more than 2,000-years old. The sturdy stone walls that surround the [...]

Shalom from Israel

Shalom from Israel

Our pilgrimage to Israel began four years ago, following a scary diagnosis and a very specific recommendation. “You should take your daughter to the Western Wall,” my mom’s friend Sam, a retired Israeli soldier, told her, after hearing that my sister Kathy had been diagnosed with breast cancer. My mom, who lights candles in almost [...]